Our collections contain a rich array of Highland dress costume and tartan fashion from the Georgian era. Discover a range of kilt suits from 1790 to 1830.

1. Kilt suit, c.1790-1800

By the close of the 18th century, the Highland dress costumes worn by Scottish gentlemen had become more tailored. The tartan used in the construction of this coat and kilt dates from the late Georgian period, when named patterns first began to appear on a commercial scale. Known variations on this pattern include Kidd, Caledonia, and Macpherson. The suit would likely have been worn with diced hose and brogues, a white linen shirt, a neckcloth, and a long silk waistcoat with a high collar.

2. Kilt suit worn by Andrew Clark, c.1815

By the early 19th century, military style had become a strong influence on civilian fashions across Europe. The horizontal button placement and epaulettes of gold bullion ribbon seen on this kilt jacket echo aspects of regimental uniforms worn by soldiers during the Napoleonic Wars. The MacLean clan tartan used in the construction of the suit has been woven from a mixture of worsted and silk, a marker of quality.

3. Kilt suit of Mackintosh clan tartan, c.1820

In the 18th century, plaids were kilted by hand and secured by a belt. By the early 19th century a tailored alternative had emerged which successfully mimicked the appearance of a full plaid, while using comparatively little fabric. The illusion is achieved by tying the tailored plaid around the waist above the sewn kilt, drawing the excess material up onto the shoulder and securing it with a ribbon.

4. Kilt suit of MacGregor clan tartan, c.1820

The inventive manipulation of tartan patterns was a hallmark of Highland dress tailoring in the early 19th century. This kilt suit has been constructed with great skill and attention to detail. The MacGregor pattern is well-matched across the entirety of the coat, from the curved back seams to the convergence of the pattern at the front closure. Also note the evenness of the sewn kilt pleats, an emergent trend in kilt-making of the era that continues to influence how the garment is made today.

5. Kilt suit worn by Piper Malcolm McCallum, c.1822

Malcolm McCallum was one of twenty pipers who travelled from Glen Lyon to Edinburgh in August 1822 to perform before George IV, in celebration of the monarch’s landing at Leith. According to family tradition, this was the suit of Highland dress McCallum wore on that occasion. The coat and kilt are made from Drummond tartan, while the fringed plaid is the Robertson pattern.

6. Kilt suit of Murray of Atholl clan tartan, c.1820-1830

Acquired from a sale at Fingask Castle in Perthshire, this kilt suit of Murray of Atholl tartan probably belonged to a member of the Murray Threipland family during the middle decades of the 19th century.

The deep collar and cuffs are faced with green silk velvet, while green silk rosettes adorn the front of the kilt. The coat is double-breasted, decorated with two rows of domed white metal buttons. The suit can be worn with either a light tailored plaid or a fringed shoulder plaid, allowing the wearer greater flexibility when dressing.