From military style jackets to informal housecoats, three tartan coats in our collection demonstrate the range of styles and uses of these garments in Georgian Britain.
Silk tartan banyan, c. 1760
A banyan was an informal housecoat, worn by gentlemen when at leisure in the privacy of their own homes. To own such a garment was a declaration of one’s wealth and social status. They were often constructed using expensive materials and spoke to a lifestyle free of physical toil.
This example is made of a fine silk tartan and belonged to the Hays of Yester, East Lothian. The back of the garment was altered in the 19th century to resemble the tails of a formal frock coat, probably for use at a fancy dress ball or home theatrical.
Image gallery
Sleeve and cuff detail of silk tartan banyan, c.1760. Museum reference K.2002.1033.
Silk tartan banyan, c.1760. Museum reference K.2002.1033.
Silk tartan banyan, c.1760. Museum reference K.2002.1033.
Silk tartan banyan, c.1760. Museum reference K.2002.1033.
Altered back of silk tartan banyan, c.1760. Originally loose and flowing, the fabric has been reshaped into rigid tails. Museum reference K.2002.1033.
Tartan coat worn by Sir John James Scott-Douglas, c.1819
This short coat of Royal Stewart tartan belonged to Sir John James Scott Douglas when he was a Captain in the 22nd Light Dragoons, at the age of 27. It is made of worsted tartan with blue velvet facings. Sprays of thistles have been embroidered at the cuffs and collar, using silver metal thread. Single-breasted with a straight cut-away at the hips, the coat is fastened by a row of domed white metal buttons of a type commonly seen in military clothing.
Image gallery
The same thistle pattern adorns the cuffs of the coat. Tartan coat worn by Sir John James Scott-Douglas, c.1819. Museum reference H.TTA 16.
Tartan coat worn by Sir John James Scott-Douglas, c.1819. Museum reference H.TTA 16.
Tartan coat worn by Sir John James Scott-Douglas, c.1819. Museum reference H.TTA 16.
Tartan coat worn by Sir John James Scott-Douglas, c.1819. Museum reference H.TTA 16.
Thistles worked in metal thread against blue silk velvet. The high collar is lined with tartan and fastened with hooks and eyes. Tartan coat worn by Sir John James Scott-Douglas, c.1819. Museum reference H.TTA 16.
The coat tails are heavy with domed metal buttons. These are for decoration only and serve no practical function. Tartan coat worn by Sir John James Scott-Douglas, c.1819. Museum reference H.TTA 16.
Tartan coat worn by Sir John James Scott-Douglas, c.1822
Also belonging to Sir John James Scott Douglas, this second coat is made of a fine worsted and silk weaving of the Royal Stewart tartan. It has green velvet facings, decorated with gold thistle motifs at the cuffs and collar. Two rows of cut-glass buttons backed with foil frame the centre front of the coat, the sleeve closures and coat tails. The curved cut-away of the coat over the hips is suggestive of elite court styles of the era.
Image gallery
The front, back and cuffs of the coat are ornamented with cut-glass buttons backed with foil. These would have sparkled brilliantly in a candlelit ballroom. Tartan coat worn by Sir John James Scott-Douglas, c.1819. Museum reference H.TTA 17.
Tartan coat worn by Sir John James Scott-Douglas, c.1822. Museum reference H.TTA 17.
Tartan coat worn by Sir John James Scott-Douglas, c.1822. Museum reference H.TTA 17.
Tartan coat worn by Sir John James Scott-Douglas, c.1822. Museum reference H.TTA 17.
Thistles worked in gold metal thread against a green silk velvet collar. The tartan used is a mix of worsted and silk. Tartan coat worn by Sir John James Scott-Douglas, c.1819. Museum reference H.TTA 17.
Note the cut-glass buttons hidden between the folds of the coat tails. Tartan coat worn by Sir John James Scott-Douglas, c.1822. Museum reference H.TTA 17.